Ohrid Ultra Trail

As we left the consolation of the resort at 23:30 it was buzzing with exercise. The packed restaurant was bouncing with loud music and dancing. Paul had hardly slept as his room was above the restaurant. Thankfully I’d grabbed some sleep earlier within the day. As we walked down the strip we realised this was widespread for a Friday night time in Ohrid, North Macedonia. What was clear after we arrived on the Chinar Tree to merge with the small crowd, was that path operating was much less widespread. Gathered at this historic tree had been simply 40 runners huddled collectively close to a modest begin line making ready for a 100km journey…

Ohrid Lake. Love the distinctive design of the Tee by an area artist

Upon arrival we sought out an individual with a employees badge round his neck to ask in regards to the route. Earlier within the day, when registering, it was indicated that the route would should be modified because of the storms forecast for Saturday. We hadn’t heard something since so requested what the route could be. He very clearly defined the state of affairs, that heavy storms had been forecast and so we might not be visiting Margaro or the opposite peaks on the route. We’d have an unchanged course for the primary 50kms or so to Vojtino. Then we’d detour to Prevoj on a unique route, skipping the large climb to Magaro by staying decrease down and going across the mountain. From Prevoj we’d once more detour and skip the peaks and ridges and as a substitute head to Assan Gjura extra instantly on some entry roads. The subsequent part could be unchanged to Letnica however then as soon as extra we’d skip the final peak and start descending extra on to the ultimate support station of Velestovo. We thanked him and he instructed us to remain shut for the briefing. He launched himself as Dejan, the race director. A couple of minutes later he gave the security briefing, re-explaining the state of affairs and path to the entire discipline earlier than we then gathered within the beginning coral with the modest variety of spectators cheering us on as he counted right down to midnight.

At the modest startline on the Chinar Tree

The race started and half the sphere vanished out of sight virtually instantly, racing off by means of the cobbled streets of Old Town Ohrid. We stayed on the again, proper on the again, as per our technique to get pleasure from a sluggish first marathon. Natalia was operating the 65km route which started at our marathon mark, Sv Naum, simply after our cutoff. The intention was to run together with her, so reasonably than bust a intestine after which cling round, we deliberate to reach between 06:00 – 07:00 and benefit from the night time shift.

St John’s church captured by the wonderful race photographers

In the darkness we weaved across the Old Town. A sequence of cobble streets noticed us climb as much as the citadel at 700m. Even right here we ran on trails and single tracks as we made it to the lakeside and descended handed St. John’s church and onto the lake entrance the place we ran throughout a really wobbly boardwalk earlier than hitting the strip again in direction of the resort. We ran handed the crimson flag markers which we’d noticed on our approach to the beginning (we noticed a number of youngsters strolling and waving them which gave us some preliminary considerations in regards to the markings, which had been unfounded). As we approached the resort we might hear Lisa cheering from the balcony and waving us on. We had been in a small group of possibly ten different runners, most of whom had been Greeks and had been main the pack as we ran handed the end line after a number of km. We all cheered as one tempted destiny and ran by means of the finishers arch. I hoped the timing mat wasn’t switched on already!

Along the lake entrance we heard the wild calls of nature with many many birds and bugs singing into the night time as we left the roads and Ohrid and headed onto the paths. It started with a delicate climb on a large monitor highway. We handed a spot referred to as Paradise Nest which was a sequence of cabins overlooking the lake and shortly turned onto single tracks by means of the forest. Here we chatted with the Greeks who had all come over on a bus tour collectively. With some regular climbing on rocky trails we then emerged on the first support station of Velestovo about 12km in. A fast refill and to Paul’s delight a cup of the ‘correct stuff’ – Coca Cola branded cola. We left figuring out we’d be again right here many many hours later after we’d descend again to Ohrid.

We left the help station and continued by means of some farm land. I adopted two runners and Paul held off as we couldn’t see any flags or markings. They couldn’t hear me as I referred to as after them. I adopted and located the path and waited, calling again to Paul within the darkness who quickly discovered me after he positioned the precise path and looped across the farmland. The route then took us up off the quad monitor and onto a slender single path that was very rocky. We continued on this, climbing greater and better. Below us to the best was the darkness of a valley between two ridges. The second, greater one looming straight forward, a silhouette within the night time sky. The climb continued, alternating between rocky paths and forest tracks which often opened up beneath the moon-lit sky. The air round us was cooling and the moisture of the night time made us chilly as our garments grew to become wetter with sweat and the mist. As we trod on by means of the mist we virtually missed a flip which, fortunately, the runner behind noticed and referred to as after us. This was the summit of the primary climb and, the inevitable down adopted. My phrase it was a magnificence…

No image would do the view justice as we descended the primary mountain

The tracks opened up wider. The forests cleared to open areas. To our left the mountain dropped away to darkness and up forward the orange moonlight replicate off the calm lake. It was beautiful. We ran free, completely happy, having fun with the second, hopping from path to path as we descended in direction of the city of Konjsko. We couldn’t cease commenting to one another about how wonderful it was. It all ended too shortly as we rocked up on the subsequent aidstation and counseled them on their glorious unfold of cheese sandwiches. We briefly chatted with the volunteers who had been excited to see some UK runners (there have been two different Brits on the market someplace too) they usually instructed us they’d see us once more on the marathon mark at SV Naum. So off we went into the night time as soon as extra with our bellies and hearts full.

From right here the night time grew to become a bit of tougher. Naturally tiredness now started to creep in as the thrill of the beginning started to fade and our our bodies fought again in opposition to the pure want to be asleep. The terrain grew to become crimson within the night time as we ran by means of infinite mud/clay tracks and our ft grew to become heavier as they collected the dust of their lugs. It was tremendous sticky. We had a alternative of that or the rocky tracks across the mud. I saved to the mud. The smells had been a pleasing distraction although because the forests round us had been lush, dense and inexperienced. After what felt like a very long time of trudging alongside we caught one other, native(ish) runner from North Macedonia. We all chatted away as the paths started to descend once more, zigzagging down hill we flew and loved the second as soon as extra. We emerged onto a highway crossing the place we not noticed the trail or flags/markings indicating which approach to go. Come to think about it, we’d not seen a flag marker for fairly a while. Oh oh.

I shortly loaded the course to my watch figuring out that we had been nonetheless on the unchanged route so would be capable to test our location. It was instantly clear we’d gone mistaken, very mistaken. We’d come off the mountain far before we should always have. We must be crossing this highway about 5kms additional alongside. We briefly thought of the choice of following the highway to rejoin the course the place it crossed. We determined not too. We felt we had time to recuperate, and that there was a small likelihood the subsequent aidstation could be earlier than the highway crossing and we’d must ‘test in’. It was additionally fairly a fundamental highway, despite the fact that it was early within the morning it wouldn’t be the most secure possibility. So we began retracing our steps again up the mountain.

Turns out it was longer than we thought. The swap again tracks deceived the radius proven on the watch. We weren’t getting again to the place we went mistaken anytime quickly. We didn’t understand it on the time, however we’d run virtually 3km within the mistaken route and in addition descended 300m which we then wanted to climb. It price us fairly a little bit of time! We lastly made it again to the place we went mistaken and waited for the opposite man to catch up to ensure he additionally ended up again on monitor. As we waited we realised the error we had made – there was a slight cut up within the path. After we took one monitor they merged as soon as extra and we bear in mind acknowledging that and saying it wasn’t an issue. What we hadn’t seen although was that there was a sneaky activate the opposite monitor which we due to this fact missed. We ought to have realised we had been not following the markings, however we had been clearly having fun with the downhill an excessive amount of.

Remaining optimistic when racing the clock

Now we had been again on monitor we ran a bit of tougher. The monitor was much less gratifying than the descent we beforehand took and was a bit of rockier. We saved going and had been heating up because the morning mild began to switch the darkness and we took off our head torches. It wasn’t an excessive amount of later that we then descended the mountain the place we should always have initially and crossed the highway as soon as extra. Shortly after this we handed by means of Trejca and after a brief highway climb we got here throughout the subsequent support station the place three volunteers sat along with the highway. They acknowledged we had been probably the final runners so we allow them to know there was another on his means as a result of we’d gotten misplaced. From right here we had virtually 9km to go to SV Naum. This part additionally included a bit of climb of round 200m and a corresponding descent. It was 05:50, the lower off was at 07:00. After an evening of operating this was now going to be tight. Tighter than I needed to confess however fortunately Paul took cost and ran off for the subsequent 9km and I simply needed to attempt to hold him in sight.

We adopted the highway earlier than going again into the forest and shortly conquered the climb (which fortunately took us over a saddle in two hills reasonably than up and over one of many greater lumps!) and had been then descending the slender and rocky single tracks by means of the forest. We caught up and handed one of many Greek runners and took a second to benefit from the views close to a a village and over the lake because the morning mild broke totally into day. I like the tip of an evening shift on a long term when the morning breaks. It has an actual empowering second for me when your power ranges have dipped and begin rising once more with the rays of sunshine. Running by means of small villages at this level is one in every of my favorite facets of path operating because the paths take you in all instructions as you discover the unfamiliar land. Here we briefly skirted a village and went again right down to the extent of the lake the place we left the forest and stumble on a shingle seashore. Bollocks to that. This wasn’t humorous anymore. We had been operating arduous! I used to be panting arduous. I might see Paul trying again checking I used to be nonetheless in sight. My legs had been aching and the tender floor didn’t assist. Neither did the realisation that we had been operating on this for so far as I might see within the distance. I needed to cease a lot however calculated we nonetheless had 30mins to go to the lower off and probably so far as 5km nonetheless to cowl.

We left the seashore after which stumble on what felt like an impediment course. We ran out and in of farmland and needed to climb over many fallen timber and duck by means of slender overgrown passes. But the topping was the (admittedly small) river crossing that we would have liked to make. It was clearly fairly deep the place it met the lake and a rope was set as much as assist us cross. I ploughed straight within the thigh-high stage with out giving it a second thought. We simply needed to hold going. Time was not on our facet. Running by means of the infinite crop fields we handed a number of extra runners and for a quick second between breaths I felt unbeatable. We didn’t cease to acknowledge them however sped on handed. Finally the flip into the monastery was clear and we ran by means of and into the help station with 8 minutes to spare earlier than the lower off. The first marathon hadn’t fairly gone to plan!

As we arrived, Dejan and the woman from a earlier support station laughed as we defined our cock up and little journey. We ate and drank as they instructed us we didn’t want to go away precisely at 07:00 and that they might be lenient with runners. They additionally instructed us the lead runner had pulled out after encountering a bear on the course, so to be observant. Great!

The 65km runners arrived and I discovered Natalia as the remainder of them ploughed into the help station and began raiding it. That annoyed me a bit of given some 100k runners had been nonetheless arriving and wanted the refreshments! I mentioned goodbye to Natalia (we’d organized to satisfy simply after the help station so we had been out of the best way of their begin). After the manic run to the aidstation, Paul determined to stick with us from right here additionally. We had been each spent from the mammoth effort we’d simply put in. We wanted a break and the 30mins till Natalia would begin was now going to be our relaxation and we had been trying ahead to it. We walked a bit after which sat within the solar a km down the route and cheered the lead runners from the 65km by means of after they turned up. The first two runners already had a really sizeable lead on the chasing pack. It was very spectacular. We then picked up operating once more when Natalia confirmed up shortly after them.

From right here the route took us by means of extra fields and dense inexperienced areas. We chatted with completely different teams of runners as they handed us together with a number of Americans who had been residing in North Macedonia. There was one other river crossing which everybody fastidiously tiptoed throughout on some strategically positioned rocks. I ploughed by means of as soon as once more to the delight of the Americans. I had moist ft anyway so it made no distinction to me and had the good thing about figuring out I had spare socks in my drop bag ready afterward.

From right here we started ascending. This was now the most important climb of the run and we’d be climbing 900m to Vojtino. So we climbed. That’s all we’d do. Head down and stroll on. We performed leapfrog with a number of runners and adopted the monitor because it handed by means of extra forests and infrequently opened up onto huge rocks overlooking the lake. The views had been stunning and we took the possibility to cease and seize the moments after we might. It actually was beautiful. Some how, out of nowhere the subsequent support station then appeared. We’d been so centered on simply strolling that the part handed by fairly shortly. It was pretty small however we welcomed the chance to tackle extra liquids because it was very humid within the early morning warmth. Here the volunteers instructed us it was possibly 4km to Provej, which might be the drop bag support station. This was the place the route was now modified and reasonably than climbing one other 900m or so to the Magaro summit and descending right down to Prevoj, we’d climb decrease (possibly just some hundred metres) and circle the mountain as a substitute. It was a disgrace, however, on the similar time we had been now glad it wasn’t as far to go. We moved onwards.

The part wasn’t precisely simple although (simpler than the off monitor 900m climb to the summit over 5km I’m certain!). The climb continued and in locations it was fairly steep and largely the bottom was lined in a deep layer of leaves that lined a large number of obstacles – rocks, sticks, snow even! It felt longer than 4km by the point we left the climb and emerged right into a grass mountain facet that wouldn’t look misplaced within the Sound of Music! We had been delighted to seek out the help station ready for us. I instantly sought out sizzling meals and my drop bag. I set to work freshening myself up and stocking up on the soup and pasta they offered. I used to be very hungry and empty and knew I wanted meals earlier than it was too late. Paul and Natalia patiently waited for me and put up with my antics of snorting Tailwind which I’d spilt making an attempt to refill my bottles.

As we left the help station we had been instructed we’d now comply with a highway for a number of kms earlier than discovering a dust/quad monitor. Again we had been avoiding the climb to the subsequent summit and weren’t operating alongside the ridge. The highway was certainly very lengthy and the tarmac damage our achy legs. At noon the warmth was absorbed by the black floor and it felt like we had been being battered from all sides. It was powerful going. We weren’t alone although. We’d made a good friend. A canine. He ran casually with us. Not a sound from him. Just a tongue hanging out. He appeared completely happy. We joked that he favored dishonest on us with the quicker runners as he’d run with us for a good bit then would run off and chase the runners forward of us earlier than ready for us to catch him up. He ran alongside us for a lot of kms. Even after we turned off the highway and adopted the monitor once more.

New good friend

Here we might see Lake Prespa (the opposite lake hidden from Ohrid by the mountain vary) on our proper. Lake Ohrid was now hidden by the mountain ridge to our left someplace. The views had been beautiful and we loved trying again on the mountains behind us, questioning what if… after which it occurred. Pretty a lot bang on noon as forecast the sky began to darken. The thunder began to rumble. The rain began to come back. Natalia was having none of it and began operating tougher and quicker. Me and Paul couldn’t sustain. Within minutes she was out of sight. We carried on, walk-running within the rain. We caught and handed a number of different runners and ultimately caught up together with her at Assan Gjura.

Here on the support station we sat beneath the shelter of the outbuilding together with many different runners from all of the completely different distances. Some had been coming, some had been leaving. We took a second to collect ourselves, re-calibrating our focus and pondering of the storms and what was left to run. As the rain eased off we psyched ourselves up and ready to go away. Only we couldn’t. The volunteers and park authorities suggested we didn’t as there have been extra storms coming. They made the choice to carry us all on the support station for security. We sat again down not figuring out how lengthy we’d be right here. The minutes ticked by. Food was operating low however we had been all fed up of the identical factor now anyway. They lit a fireplace burner and all of us huddled inside a room that grew to become our sauna. After a very long time one lonely runner arrived on the aidstation from the 100k. She was very moist. Eventually, after about an hour and a half, they allow us to depart. Initially it was a ‘5 individuals can go’. Without pondering I selfishly grabbed Natalia and pushed to the entrance, indicating that us three would depart. My thoughts was on ending. My thoughts was on escaping any threat of not ending in the event that they cancelled the race. I wasn’t primarily pondering of security at this level. In my thoughts we might end in a number of hours and we had been descending just about for the remainder of the race, I felt they wouldn’t be saying we might depart if it wasn’t protected.

We set off. We had been legging it. This part was flat at about 1400m asl. Trying to get so far as we might while it was dry. Within seconds the numerous layers we’d placed on had been coming off once more. The floor was a waterlogged and there have been puddles in all of the tracks and the crimson earth was equal measures sticky and slippery. The skies nevertheless had been clear and shiny. For now… We ran on back and forth skipping the puddles and dust. Up forward the sky was getting darker and the feint rumbles of thunder could possibly be heard once more. There was a lonely cow, mooing loudly in entrance of us. We ready to go it on extensively. It was both distressed or it was warning us. From the left, there was a man descending shortly from the mountain. He was operating in denims with a bottle of water in his hand shouting and waving. I believed he was chasing after his cow, misplaced within the storm. Of course he wasn’t. He was making an attempt to get our consideration. He directed us to go within the route he had simply come from. He defined that we had been operating straight into the storms which had been about 40 minutes away. He instructed us on the highest of the climb there may be one other man on the highway who will give us additional directions. It was possibly a ten minute climb, a really sluggish climb. Natalia went shortly. Me and Paul went slowly. I assumed that this was it, that this was the place our race would finish. I assumed right here they’d be telling us to get within the automobile and we’d be evacuated from the storms.

Different floor situations after the storm

As Natalia reached the man we might hear the directions he was was offering. He was directing us down one other means. This wasn’t recreation over in spite of everything. There was nonetheless hope. I wakened from my false distress and we sped up for the previous couple of metres of the climb to affix them. He gave us his quantity for security and topped us up with coke. Our directions now had been that we’d comply with the dust monitor highway for a number of kilometres. Eventually we’d discover a activate our lefthand facet marked with the flags and that we should always take this route in direction of Velestovo, the ultimate support station. He emphasised the trail on the left and never the one on the best. The right route would divert us across the storm and we’d skip the subsequent support station and head straight to the final one.

We ran on slowly because it was powerful. My legs damage a lot. Natalia was contemporary and powerful and centered on getting down and out of the storms as shortly as attainable. I used to be struggling behind with the inevitable painful ankles. Natalia would run off and look forward to us to catch up earlier than carrying on down the highway. The route was gradual and never too dangerous however it was a dust monitor and fairly painful on the drained ft. The thunder was rising louder and louder round us and the rain had began but once more. After some time I began to suppose we’d missed the flip. I test the unique route and thought we’d run handed a activate the that route possibly 1-2 km additional again. I couldn’t perceive it. How?! We didn’t see something, we had been being alert and would have observed the marked flags and the escape route! We checked the native maps and will see that this path would bend again in direction of the storm barely earlier than connecting with one other path which might take us in direction of the help station we needed. We made the choice to hold on and hint this route as a substitute.

A couple of minutes later we discovered crimson flags on each the best and left. This was it! In all my confusion we had been doing simply advantageous and hadn’t missed the flip. We turned left as instructed. A couple of different runners handed us. I used to be nonetheless confused although and it didn’t make an excessive amount of sense in my head however everybody reassured me that it was proper. It wasn’t a lot additional earlier than we hit a bit of village and Natalia dashed off to the help station. Me and Paul walked the remainder of the trail and filmed the view of Ohrid additional down. It was stunning and we might virtually odor the end now. It was pissing down, darkish and moody, as we arrived into the help station. Natalia was a bit of on edge and uncomfortable with the considered leaving the sanctuary of the help station and getting into the storms for the ultimate 8km. We reassured her and she or he emerged from the help station with us to make the ultimate respectable to Ohrid. We made a run for it figuring out we’d be completed quickly. Far, far before we initially thought. With all of the diversions and lack of climbing we’d be developing quick on the gap and ending while it was nonetheless mild, which was a pleasing thought now.

The cash shot

From right here we ran a unique route again to Ohrid than which we’d climbed the night time earlier than. This one took us by means of the villages and down some grassy tracks in direction of the lakeside. The complete means I used to be behind Natalia and Paul. My legs screaming at me as I saved rolling my ankles on the uneven terrain. At one level I heard them each make some noise and noticed Paul pull up all of a sudden. There had been some locals re-cementing the highway (throughout a storm!) and Paul had virtually ploughed straight into it. They directed us round and cheered us on our means. Shortly after which we then wanted to navigate our means by means of a herd of goats who had been off on their very own journey. Further down we reached the primary highway of Ohrid. It was flooded. We had a brief detour to cross the highway round a petroleum station to affix the trail to the lake. Paul went off, making a beeline for the end. Natalia pushed me arduous to get handed the previous couple of 100km runners in our sight. She was operating so robust.

Moments later we hit the house stretch and crossed the road, hand in hand. It was accomplished. It wasn’t fairly the race we’d hoped for, however the consequence was precisely as deliberate. At the end line Dejan, the RD, congratulated us and handed us our medals. It was an unimaginable expertise and an journey we are going to always remember.

Hand in Hand

After ending, two issues had been instantly clear to me. Firstly, how accommodating the Macedonians had been and the way effectively we had been sorted by Dejan, his group and all of the volunteers. Personally, I felt protected all through and by no means had worries. We knew there could be storms. We knew security measures had been at all times more likely to be activated, however it was the style in how they had been accomplished which was spectacular. With runners spread-out over so many various components of the route it will need to have been a logistical nightmare to handle. But, we had been knowledgeable, at registration, at the beginning of the race and through. The course was very effectively marked (it was our mistake which made us get misplaced early on) and the volunteers and Park Authorities had been useful and informative. Whilst we had been held at Assan Gjura we had been instructed the organisers had been out monitoring the state of affairs and confirming when it could be protected to go away. Having mid support station diversions to keep away from the storms was additionally one thing that impressed me. I felt so sorted and cared for.

Secondly, Natalia’s mentality impressed me and I’m so pleased with her. She made no secret of her considerations and worry of the storms, specifically the lightening strikes. Yet, she ran, she saved going and she or he made it to the end line regardless of her fears. What impresses me is how robust she is. I don’t share such fears so I’ll by no means totally perceive what it should really feel wish to be battling your self at such a instinctive stage. I run with out worry so can’t comprehend what it have to be wish to have your thoughts working in opposition to you when you’re drained and exhausted. She by no means gave up regardless of the numerous, many alternatives she needed to cease in the course of the race, she simply saved going. I’m so pleased with her and her power.

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